I miss surfing.

It was my alone time. When you’re riding a wave you’re in that moment, your mind is focussed – no distractions.

It’s not often that we find ourselves in this state of bliss during our busy day to day lives. Usually our minds are caught between A and B while anticipating C, whether we’re revisiting the past, anticipating the future, judging things, other people or ourselves. Surfing allowed me to be present in mind and body, from paddling in, standing up to pulling off the back of the wave. This could be all of an exhilarating 10 seconds – sometimes longer, but mostly shorter depending on the conditions and/or type of wave or my ability on the day.

Experts suggest that on average a person has between 50,000-70,000 thoughts per day, that’s 5.8 thoughts (as a low estimation) every 10 seconds! 80 percent of those thoughts tend to be negative. It can be a busy time in our heads trying to calm the monkey mind.

During my monkey mind moments, when I’ve acted(*1) irrational, overemotional or self absorbed, I felt I was moving away from my true self. Going surfing has always been one of the ways(*2) to find my way back to the centre, where I feel grounded. During my surly moments – my wife would say “bugger off, go surfing, come back a better man!”…and you know what…when i did…i was!

It’s been a while since I’ve surfed consistently. We moved to Lincoln about a year ago from Dunedin – the mecca of surfing in New Zealand(*3)  in my opinion. Since then my gills have dried up and I now surf maybe once every 1-2 months(*4). With such little consistently – I don’t even tell people I’m a surfer – the reason being is, surfers…well…surf!

To be honest though, the last 3 years while in Dunedin I’d surfed intermittently. There were a number of reasons. I had lost motivation due to shifting my focus on work and probably taking myself a lil too serious(*5). Physically, I had put on weight – and my hips had seized up, likely due to a career of sitting at a workstation for hours and days on end, for 25 years. And oh…I also come from a family of broken down labradors – meaning we (dad and my bros) all have bad hips and knees.

Aaaaaanyways – this isn’t a ‘woe is me’ story – in fact, it’s the exact opposite – I’ve spent 4 years away from spending any meaningful time in the ocean(*6)…that is about to change. My target is to surf this Summer without the frustration and make it part of my life, again… be a better man.

How?

I’m currently getting physio, with Vicki at Motus Lincoln Physiotherapy Clinic – she knows my story and is helping me, specifically open up my hips, gain flexibility through my back and ribs with a regime of stretches and exercises. Vicki’s cool, a straight shooter(*7), I told her I’m willing to be a guinea pig – to test her theories! I’ve been in the mix for about a month…there’s been a little progress. I am realistic  – it’s taken 25 years to get my body in this state, it’s going to take a bit of effort, discipline and motivation to get to where I wanna be.

While i’m improving my mobility with Vicki – I also need to lose the flab, there’s plenty to lose. Callum at the Lincoln University Recreation Centre gets my vision and he’s committed to kicking my arse and has done so already! In between sessions we take the piss outta each other… I like that…he’s a good bugger.

Accountability…

Soooooooo, I now have professionals that are helping me get to where I need to go – that’s pretty cool. However a backstop would be useful – so if you’re reading this and you’re kicking around the gym feel free to hit me up and ask me how my journeys going. Maybe listen carefully for a monkey brain response –  excuses, complaints or attitude (negative)!

Additionally, if you see me slacking, call me out – I am approachable, I promise I’ll be grateful(*8). Keep in mind though, if you’re gonna keep me on point, expect the same from me. That way we can help each other, eh?

The vid’s of me – when I could surf – 4 years ago – Allan’s Beach, Otago Peninsula… I gotta get back there.

I welcome comments below.

(*1) In this instance using the word ‘acted’ is entirely appropriate.

(*2) I’ve been exploring other ways too – but will share that in other posts!

(*3) for consistently in terms of swell, wind and variety of waves.

(*4) There was a time when I surfed everyday!…sometime twice.

(*5) Put simply being too self absorbed…monkey mind madness.

(*6) Even though our Dunedin house looked over a beach/point break – really, I had no excuse to not surf!

(*7) Exactly what I need – given I’ve bullshxtted myself in terms of motivation and commitment in the past!

(*8) If not, you can call me out in the comments section below..seriously.